Ornamental Eggplant

A Detailed Guide to Growing Ornamental Eggplant Varieties

Target Varieties: This guide is for you if your seeds are labeled African Red (also known as Scarlet Eggplant, Mock Tomato, or Gilo) or Gold-and-Silver (Ornamental Eggplant, Golden Eggs). These plants, often from the Solanum aethiopicum species, are grown for their stunning visual appeal and rich history, though some are used in traditional cuisines.

Like their culinary cousins, these ornamental varieties are heat-loving plants that must be started indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost. However, they can be slightly more challenging to germinate, with success rates sometimes closer to 70%. For this reason, the pre-soaking step is mandatory. Submerge the seeds in room-temperature water for a full 24 hours to penetrate their tough outer shells.

Plant the soaked seeds 1/4 inch deep in a sterile mix and place them on a heat mat maintaining a soil temperature of 80°F to 90°F. Patience is key here; while some may sprout in a week, the African Red can sometimes take up to 21 days to emerge. Do not give up on them. Once they sprout, provide 14-16 hours of intense light to foster strong, compact growth. These varieties are naturally robust and bushy, making them excellent candidates for both garden beds and large decorative containers (5-gallon minimum).

After all danger of frost has passed and nights are warm, harden off your seedlings and transplant them into a location with full, direct sun. This is crucial for developing the deepest and most vibrant fruit colors. While they are more drought-tolerant than culinary eggplants, consistent watering will result in a healthier, more productive plant. A general-purpose organic fertilizer applied once a month is sufficient; they do not require the intensive feeding regimen of their heavy-fruiting relatives. Their sturdy, woody stems rarely require staking unless they are in a particularly windy location.

The primary difference with ornamental varieties lies in the harvest. You are not harvesting for tender flesh, but for peak color and decorative value. The Gold-and-Silver variety is magical to watch. It produces fruit that starts as a pure, glossy white (the "Silver" or "Egg" stage) and slowly ripens to a brilliant, metallic golden-yellow (the "Gold" stage). For the most striking container display, allow fruits in both stages to exist on the plant simultaneously.

The African Red variety produces heavily ribbed, pumpkin-like fruits that begin green and ripen to a spectacular, fiery orange-red. While edible and prized in parts of West Africa and Brazil for their bitter taste in stews, their main appeal in many gardens is as a natural decoration. To use them in floral arrangements, wait until the fruits have achieved their final, deep red or golden color. Cut an entire branch laden with fruit, strip off the leaves, and place it in a vase. The colorful "mock tomatoes" or "golden eggs" will remain vibrant for several weeks, making for a stunning and long-lasting autumn centerpiece. Unlike culinary types, you should leave the fruit on the plant to allow it to go through its full, beautiful color transformation.

A Detailed Guide to Growing Culinary Eggplant Varieties

Target Varieties: This guide is for you if your seed packet is labeled South Asian Painted (also known as Striped Brinjal), Purple Long (Chinese/Japanese Eggplant), Egg Eggplant (White Casper), Purple Line (Thin Finger Eggplant), Purple Pot (Patio Baby), or Purple Round (Italian/Black Beauty type). These are all members of the Solanum melongena species, bred over generations for superior flavor and texture.

Your journey begins with acknowledging that these plants are tropical natives. They crave heat and need a long season to produce abundantly. Therefore, starting them indoors is not just a suggestion—it is a requirement in any climate with a real winter. Count back 8 to 10 weeks from your region's average last frost date; this is your start date.

First, prepare the seeds for their best chance at life. While germination rates are typically a reliable 75-85%, a 24-hour soak in room-temperature water will dramatically improve both the speed and uniformity of sprouting. This simple step softens the tough seed coat, signaling to the dormant embryo that it is time to grow. After soaking, plant the seeds 1/4 inch deep in a sterile, fine-particle seed-starting medium. The single most critical element for success is consistent, high heat. Place your seed trays on a waterproof seedling heat mat set to maintain a soil temperature between 80°F and 90°F. If your soil is below 70°F, you risk germination failure or seed rot. Within 7 to 14 days, you should see the first seedlings emerge. The moment they break the surface, place them under strong grow lights for 14-16 hours per day to prevent them from becoming tall, weak, and "leggy."

As your seedlings develop their first true leaves, it is time to transition them into slightly larger individual pots. This prevents their roots from becoming tangled and stressed. Continue to provide warmth and strong light. Do not move your plants outdoors until nighttime temperatures are consistently above 60°F and the soil has warmed. Before their final move, you must "harden them off" for a week by gradually increasing their exposure to direct sun and wind.

When planting in the garden, select a site that receives at least 8 hours of direct sun. Enrich the soil with plenty of compost. Space the larger Purple Round and South Asian Painted varieties 24 inches apart to promote airflow, which is key to preventing fungal diseases. The more slender Purple Long and Purple Line can be spaced about 18 inches apart. If you are using containers—a perfect choice for the compact Purple Pot or Egg Eggplant—select a pot at least 5 gallons in size. For your heavy producers like Purple Round, install a sturdy stake or a small tomato cage at the time of planting to avoid disturbing the roots later.

Feeding eggplants correctly involves a two-stage approach. For the first month after transplanting, use a balanced organic fertilizer to build a robust plant with plenty of leaves. Once you see the beautiful purple or white blossoms forming, switch to a fertilizer lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium. This tells the plant to shift its energy from making leaves to producing fruit. Water deeply and consistently, especially as fruits are sizing up. Mulching with straw or shredded leaves will help maintain soil moisture and keep the roots cool during hot spells.

Harvesting is an art of observation. The peak moment for all these culinary varieties is when the skin is vibrant, firm, and has a high-gloss shine. If you press the skin gently, it should give slightly but then spring back. For the Egg Eggplant, harvest when it is the size and color of a large chicken egg. For the Purple Long and Purple Line, pick them before they become overly fat or bulbous at the bottom. If the skin on any variety appears dull, faded, or yellowish, the fruit is overripe, and the flesh will be bitter with tough seeds. Frequent harvesting sends a signal to the plant to produce more, ensuring a steady supply for your kitchen until the first frost.

Upon receiving your seeds, you are holding the plant known as the Dandelion, scientifically classified as Taraxacum officinale. It carries many folk names such as Lion’s Tooth, Blowball, Cankerwort, Puffball, Faceclock, and Irish Daisy. This hardy perennial is far more than a garden volunteer; it is a nutrient-dense vegetable and medicinal herb. To get started, timing is everything. You should aim to sow your seeds in the early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked, or in the late summer. These windows provide the cool weather the plant needs to develop a strong taproot before the extreme temperatures of mid-summer or winter arrive.

Because these seeds are naturally vigorous, you can skip labor-intensive steps like soaking or nicking the seed coats. The most critical factor for successful germination is light. Dandelion seeds are photoblastic, meaning they will not sprout if they are buried in the dark. Prepare a bed of well-draining, loose soil and simply scatter the seeds on the surface. Instead of covering them with soil, use your hand to firmly press them into the earth. This ensures they have the necessary contact with soil moisture while remaining exposed to the sun, which triggers the biological process of growth.

If you prefer to keep your garden tidy, the Dandelion is an excellent candidate for container growing. This method also prevents the wind from carrying seeds to areas where they aren't wanted. Since the plant produces a long, vertical taproot, choose a pot that is at least six to ten inches deep. Use a standard organic potting mix and space the seeds about six inches apart. Container growth allows you to manage soil quality more effectively, often resulting in more tender and less bitter greens compared to those found growing wild in compacted soil.

Once your seedlings appear, which typically takes ten to fourteen days, maintenance is straightforward. While these plants are famous for their ability to survive in harsh conditions, they produce the highest quality harvest when kept consistently moist. Water the soil regularly so it stays damp but not saturated. If your primary goal is to harvest large, tender leaves, apply a balanced organic liquid fertilizer once a month. This extra nutrition encourages the plant to focus on lush foliage rather than rushing to produce flowers.

Harvesting is a seasonal progression that allows you to use every part of the plant. For the best flavor, harvest the young leaves in the early spring before the yellow blossoms appear. At this stage, the greens are mild and crisp, making them a perfect addition to fresh salads or as a replacement for spinach in cooked dishes. If you wait until after the plant has flowered, the leaves will become quite bitter, although they can still be enjoyed if blanched in boiling water first. The bright yellow flower heads themselves can be plucked at full bloom to create unique items like dandelion syrup, wine, or savory fried fritters.

In the late autumn, as the foliage begins to die back, the plant focuses its energy on the root system. This is the time to harvest the roots for their medicinal and culinary value. Use a spade or garden fork to dig deep and lift the entire taproot. After a thorough cleaning, the roots can be chopped and roasted until dark and fragrant, serving as a popular caffeine-free coffee alternative. They can also be dried and stored for use in herbal tea blends throughout the winter. By following these steps, you can turn a misunderstood plant into a year-round resource for your kitchen and apothecary.

The journey of growing your own papaya begins the moment you hold those small, dark, peppery-looking seeds in your hand. Often referred to by common names such as Pawpaw or the Melon Tree, the papaya is a fast-growing tropical herb that provides a lush, exotic look to any space. Once you have acquired your seeds, the first step is to address the sarcotesta, which is the clear, jelly-like sac surrounding each seed. While papaya seeds generally have a high germination rate, this sac contains natural growth inhibitors designed to prevent the seed from sprouting inside the fruit. To give your plants the best start, gently press the seeds against a fine sieve or rub them between paper towels to break the sac and rinse them in lukewarm water. This simple step significantly accelerates the waking process of the embryo without the need for complex scarification or chemical treatments.

Timing is critical because these plants are children of the sun. If you are in a tropical climate, you can start your seeds at any time of the year. However, for those in temperate regions, the best time to sow is in the late spring or early summer when the soil temperature consistently stays above seventy degrees Fahrenheit. Papayas are extremely sensitive to the cold and will stop growing if temperatures dip too low. To plant them, you should tuck the seeds about half an inch deep into a well-draining potting mix. It is often better to plant several seeds in one spot or pot because papayas can be male, female, or hermaphrodite. Since only the hermaphrodite or female plants produce fruit, and the hermaphrodite is self-pollinating, starting with a group of seeds ensures you have a productive plant to keep.

For those with limited space or colder climates, the papaya is surprisingly well-suited for container gardening. To succeed with a potted papaya, you must choose a large container, ideally fifteen to twenty gallons, with excellent drainage holes at the bottom. The plant has a shallow root system and does not like "wet feet," which can lead to root rot. Using a lightweight, peat-based potting soil mixed with perlite or vermiculite will provide the aeration necessary for healthy root development. Place your container in the sunniest spot available, as the plant requires at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight to generate the energy needed for fruit production. If you live in a northern climate, the portability of a container allows you to move the tree indoors or into a greenhouse once the autumn chill arrives.

Maintaining a papaya tree requires a balance of consistency and nourishment. These are considered heavy feeders because they grow so rapidly, often reaching several feet in their first year. Once the seedlings are about six inches tall, begin applying a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every two weeks. As the plant matures and begins to show signs of flowering, you can transition to a fertilizer higher in potassium to support fruit development. Water the plant deeply but allow the top inch of soil to dry out between sessions. Overwatering is the most common mistake made by new growers, so always check the moisture level of the soil with your finger before adding more.

Harvesting usually begins six to ten months after planting, depending on the warmth of your environment. You will know the fruit is ready when the skin transitions from a deep, solid green to a yellow or orange hue. If you intend to eat the fruit fresh, wait until it is at least half yellow before picking. The usage scenarios for papaya are incredibly versatile. In many cultures, the green, unripe fruit is shredded for savory salads or used as a meat tenderizer due to the presence of papain, a powerful enzyme. The fully ripened orange fruit is a staple for breakfast or desserts, prized for its buttery texture and high vitamin content. Beyond its culinary uses, the papaya tree serves as a stunning landscape centerpiece, bringing a vertical, architectural element to patios and gardens alike.

Opening a packet of Ammi visnaga seeds, often called Green Mist or Toothpick Weed, provides a unique sensory experience. The seeds are small and teardrop-shaped, darker and plumper than those of Ammi majus, but their most famous trait is their scent. If you crush a seed, it releases a powerful, spicy, and medicinal aroma, which is a result of the high concentration of a compound called khellin used in traditional herbalism. The germination rate is very high, typically around 80 percent. Like its airy cousin, Ammi visnaga requires light to germinate, so you should sow the seeds on the soil surface in mid-spring once the soil has consistently warmed. Because this species is more heat-tolerant and takes longer to reach maturity, it spending its early life building a massive, lush base of dark green, carrot-like foliage.

Ongoing maintenance for Ammi visnaga is relatively straightforward, but it does require more resources than the others. It is a heavy feeder, so applying a balanced organic fertilizer or a layer of compost at the time of planting is highly recommended. Because it develops thick, sturdy stems and a very bushy habit, it is much more wind-resistant than Ammi majus and rarely requires staking. Throughout the summer, ensure the soil remains consistently moist. As the flower heads fade, they turn into fascinating wooden-like structures that resemble toothpicks—this is why the plant is sometimes used as a natural dental tool in Mediterranean cultures. These dried structures provide excellent visual interest in the garden well into the autumn months.

The visual impact of Ammi visnaga is defined by its thick, dome-shaped clusters rather than flat umbrellas. The flower heads are convex and start as a striking, cool lime green before slowly fading to a dense, creamy white. This color transition makes the plant incredibly versatile for garden design. In containers, its dense foliage provides a lot of "visual weight," making it look like a lush, blooming shrub. In the landscape, it is the perfect "anchor" plant for the middle of a border. Its lime-green phase creates a sophisticated bridge between bright, potentially clashing colors like orange Marigolds and red Dahlias. Because of its sturdy structure and unique color, it is a favorite for modern, architectural garden designs where it provides a sense of abundance and stability.

Receiving Orlaya grandiflora seeds is a completely different experience than handling other lace plants. Often called the White Laceflower or White Snow Flower, these seeds are large, flat, and covered in soft, hook-like bristles that feel rough to the touch. This "burr" texture is a natural adaptation designed to help the seeds travel by sticking to passing animals. The germination rate for Orlaya is moderate, around 60 percent, and the seeds have a much tougher coat. To improve your success, it is highly beneficial to mimic a natural winter by placing the seeds in a damp paper towel in the refrigerator for two weeks before sowing. This brief cold stratification signals to the embryo that it is time to break its dormancy. Unlike the tiny seeds of Ammi, Orlaya seeds have more energy and should be covered with about an eighth of an inch of soil to prevent them from drying out while they sprout.

The best time to plant Orlaya is in the autumn or very early spring, as this plant is a hardy annual that thrives in cool weather. It grows to a compact height of about twenty-four inches, forming a neat mound of dark green, ferny foliage. Because it is shorter and more structural than its cousins, it rarely requires any staking or support. To keep the plant blooming for as long as possible, you should practice "deadheading," which is the process of cutting away flowers as they fade. This prevents the plant from putting its energy into seed production and forces it to produce a new flush of lacy white umbrellas. If you want the plant to return next year, simply leave the final flowers of the season on the stem so they can drop their characteristic burr seeds back into the garden.

The flowers of Orlaya are easily the most intricate and "solid" of the three. Each umbel features a ring of large, heart-shaped outer petals that surround a center of tiny florets, making each flower head look like a perfectly symmetrical snowflake or a piece of handmade lace. This distinct appearance is why they are often featured in "moonlight gardens" where their bright white petals glow in the twilight. Because of their compact size, they are the best choice for container gardening, fitting perfectly in terracotta pots on a patio. In a landscape, they are classic "front-of-the-border" plants. They pair spectacularly with roses, where the pure white lace highlights the delicate curves of the rose petals, creating a high-end, romantic English garden aesthetic.

When you first receive your packet of Ammi majus seeds, commonly known as Bishop’s Flower or False Queen Anne’s Lace, you will notice they are incredibly tiny, resembling the celery seeds found in a kitchen spice rack. These tan, ribbed ovals are lightweight and carry an impressively high germination rate of 85 to 90 percent. Because they are so small and lack significant energy reserves, they are naturally programmed to sprout only when they sense light. This means your first step in the early spring is to surface-sow them. Gently press the seeds into the soil but do not cover them; if they are buried under even a thin layer of earth, the lack of light will keep them in a permanent state of dormancy. No complex pre-treatments like soaking or chilling are necessary for this variety because the seeds are quite eager to grow once they feel the warmth of the spring sun.

As the seedlings emerge, usually within ten to fourteen days, you must be careful with their development. Ammi majus quickly grows a sensitive taproot that is easily damaged, so it is best to sow them directly in their final location or use biodegradable pots to avoid transplant shock. To prevent common issues like powdery mildew, space the plants at least twelve inches apart to allow for maximum air circulation. This plant can reach heights of three to four feet, and because its stems are hollow and delicate, providing some form of support—like a thin stake or a supportive netting—is essential to prevent them from flopping over during a heavy rainstorm. Maintenance is minimal beyond consistent watering during dry spells, though you should avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers which tend to produce excessive foliage at the expense of the flowers.

Visually, the flowers of Ammi majus are the most ethereal of the group, appearing as wide, flat, airy "umbrellas" of tiny white stars. The individual florets are uniform in size, creating a misty, see-through texture that allows light to pass through the plant. This makes them a premier choice for the middle or back of a flower border where they can act as a soft buffer between bolder, more solid-colored blooms like deep purple Salvia or bright pink Zinnias. If you are growing them in containers, choose a deep, heavy pot to accommodate the taproot and to provide a sturdy base for the tall, airy stems. In a floral arrangement, they are the ultimate filler, adding a romantic, meadow-like quality that lasts for over a week in a vase.

The Southern Magnolia is the "Grand Dame" of the genus, a massive evergreen tree that symbolizes the beauty of warmer temperate climates. When you receive these seeds, notice how heavy and oily they feel; this is due to the high fat content required to sustain the embryo through a very long dormancy. The preparation starts with the same sarcotesta removal as the other species, but the Southern Magnolia is even more prone to fungal issues. After scrubbing the seeds clean, it is often helpful to dust them with a little bit of cinnamon or a charcoal powder, which act as natural fungicides. The stratification period for this giant is the longest, often requiring a full six months (180 days) of cold storage to achieve a germination rate of 30 to 40 percent.

Sowing should take place in late winter or very early spring. Because these trees produce a massive taproot almost immediately, you should plant the seeds in the deepest pots you can find—often called "tree pots." Plant them one inch deep in a mix of peat, pine bark, and sand. The Southern Magnolia is a slow starter; it may take two months for the first leathery leaves to push through the soil. Once they appear, the maintenance is all about consistency. These trees hate to have their roots disturbed and they hate rapid changes in soil moisture. Provide them with full sun as soon as they are a few inches tall to encourage thick, sturdy growth.

While it seems impossible to keep a tree that can grow 80 feet tall in a pot, the Southern Magnolia is actually very popular for large estate-style containers when young. Dwarf cultivars like "Little Gem" are specifically bred to live in pots on sun-drenched patios. In the landscape, the Southern Magnolia is an "anchor" tree. It is so large and its shade is so dense that very few things can grow directly under it. It is best used as a privacy screen or a majestic lawn tree. Because of its dark, glossy evergreen leaves and huge white flowers, it looks best when paired with other broadleaf evergreens like Hollies or Wax Myrtles. The creamy white blooms, which can be the size of dinner plates, provide a stunning contrast against the dark green foliage throughout the early summer months.

Purple Magnolia seeds, often arriving as part of a woody cone-like fruit, are the gateway to a more compact and shrubby garden feature. Unlike the towering white Yulan, the Purple Magnolia grows as a multi-stemmed shrub or a very small tree, making it much more versatile for modern gardens. The seeds are smaller than those of the white variety but require the same vigorous cleaning process. You must remove the fleshy orange or red outer skin immediately upon receipt. If the skin is allowed to dry onto the seed, it becomes much harder to remove and significantly lowers the germination rate. After cleaning, the seeds should be soaked in room temperature water for 24 hours. Seeds that float are usually hollow and should be discarded to save space.

The cold stratification for Purple Magnolia is slightly shorter than the white variety, usually requiring about 90 to 100 days in the refrigerator. The germination rate is often slightly higher, reaching up to 60 percent if the seeds are fresh. When you are ready to plant in the spring, use a seed-starting mix that contains a high percentage of organic matter. Purple Magnolias have fleshy roots that need to breathe, so avoid heavy, clay-based soils. Plant them about a quarter-inch deep and keep them in a warm, humid environment. A heating mat under the seed tray can help speed up the emergence of the first green shoots.

Because of its shrubby, multi-stemmed growth habit, the Purple Magnolia is an excellent candidate for long-term container gardening. It can live in a large, 15-gallon pot for many years if it is pruned regularly and fed with an acidic fertilizer. In a garden landscape, this plant is perfect for small residential yards or as part of a mixed flowering hedge. Because the flowers are a deep, rich purple on the outside and a pale pink on the inside, they create a beautiful "bi-color" effect. They pair wonderfully with yellow spring flowers like Forsythia or late-blooming Daffodils. The contrast between the deep purple Lily Magnolia and bright yellow blooms creates one of the most vibrant color palettes possible in the early spring garden.

When you receive seeds of the Yulan Magnolia, you are holding the starting point of a tree that has been cultivated in gardens for over a thousand years. The seeds are typically encased in a vibrant red, fleshy outer layer called a sarcotesta. Your first and most critical task is to remove this coating. This red skin contains natural growth inhibitors designed to keep the seed dormant until it has passed through the digestive system of a bird or weathered away in the soil. To mimic this, soak the seeds in warm water for 48 hours, then use a coarse cloth or a kitchen strainer to scrub off the red flesh until only the clean, black, heart-shaped seed remains. Once cleaned, wash them with a mild dish soap to remove any oily residue, as this oil can go rancid and cause the seed to rot during the next phase.

The Yulan Magnolia requires a long period of "sleep" before it will wake up. You must place the cleaned seeds in a plastic bag filled with damp peat moss or perlite and store them in the back of your refrigerator for at least 120 days. This process, known as cold moist stratification, tells the seed that winter has happened. The germination rate for Yulan Magnolia is generally around 40 to 50 percent. If the seeds dry out completely at any point during this process, they will die, so check the moisture level in the bag every two weeks. When spring arrives and the chill period is over, sow the seeds half an inch deep in individual four-inch pots. Use a high-quality potting mix that is slightly acidic, as Yulan Magnolias struggle in alkaline environments.

Maintaining a young Yulan Magnolia requires a delicate balance of light and water. The seedlings need bright, indirect light but should be protected from the harsh midday sun, which can easily scorch their thin, new leaves. Keep the soil consistently moist but never allow it to become a muddy swamp. Because this species grows into a medium-sized tree, it is only suitable for large, heavy containers for the first few years of its life. Eventually, it must be moved to the garden to reach its full potential. In a landscape, the Yulan is best used as a standalone specimen tree. Because its white flowers bloom before the leaves appear in early spring, it looks breathtaking when paired with blue-flowered groundcovers like Ajuga or periwinkle, which provide a vivid color contrast against the fallen white petals.

Matthiola incana, commonly known as Stock, Hoary Stock, or Gillyflower, is prized by gardeners for its spicy, clove-like fragrance and its sturdy spikes of blossoms. If you want a garden that smells as good as it looks, this is the plant for you. One of the joys of growing Stock is its exceptional germination rate, which frequently reaches 80 to 90 percent. There is no need for any pre-treatment of the seeds. The most vital instruction for success is that Stock seeds are "light germinators." When you sow them, usually indoors about 8 weeks before the last frost, you must scatter them on top of the soil and press them in without covering them. If they are buried in the dark, they will simply sit there and eventually rot.

The seedlings prefer cool temperatures, so once they sprout (usually in 7 to 14 days), keep them in a room that stays between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. One interesting fact about Stock is that the seedlings often come in two types: those that will produce single flowers and those that will produce double flowers. Professional growers often find that the double-flowering seedlings are slightly paler green and grow more vigorously. Maintenance for Stock involves providing plenty of light and ensuring good air movement. They are prone to a condition called "damping-off" if the air is stagnant and the soil is too wet. Once the weather is cool and the danger of a hard freeze has passed, transplant them into the garden. Stock is a "cool-season" annual, meaning it will bloom beautifully in the spring but will stop flowering once the intense heat of July and August arrives.

Stock is one of the best plants for container gardening because its fragrance is so powerful. Planting them in window boxes or pots near a doorway ensures that every time you enter or exit your home, you are greeted by their scent. They grow vertically, reaching about 12 to 24 inches, making them perfect for the middle of a mixed container. In the garden landscape, they are classic "cottage garden" flowers. They look spectacular when planted in dense drifts alongside other spring favorites like Snapdragons, Pansies, and Sweet Alyssum. For a truly professional look, plant them in groups of ten or more to create a solid block of color and a concentrated cloud of perfume that will drift across your entire yard.

Starting Cherry Blossoms from seed, often called Flowering Cherries or Sakura, is a deeply rewarding task that requires you to act as a guardian of the seed for several months. When you receive these seeds, they are protected by a very hard, stony pit. This pit is designed to survive the digestive tract of a bird, which means the germination rate is naturally low, usually between 20 and 30 percent. To succeed, you must help the seed break through this armor. The first step is to perform "scarification." Take a file or a piece of heavy sandpaper and gently rub one side of the hard pit until you just barely see a change in color, indicating you are close to the internal seed. This allows water to enter. Next, soak the pits in room temperature water for 24 hours. Any seeds that float should be discarded, as they are likely empty shells.

The next phase is a long cold stratification. The seeds need to believe they have endured a long, cold winter. Place them in a container of damp sand and store them in your refrigerator for three to four months. Check them every few weeks to ensure the sand hasn't dried out. Once you see small cracks in the pits or tiny white roots emerging, it is time to plant. Use a deep pot with a mix of potting soil and sand. Plant the seeds about one inch deep. Cherry seedlings are very delicate and are a favorite snack for birds and squirrels, so keep them in a protected area or under a wire mesh cage until they are at least six inches tall. Maintenance involves keeping the soil moist and providing filtered sunlight. Direct, hot sun can scorch the tender new leaves of a baby Sakura.

While most people think of Cherry Blossoms as massive park trees, many varieties are perfectly suited for container life, especially if trained as bonsai. Growing a cherry tree in a pot allows you to move the tree into a prominent position when it blooms in the spring and move it to a less central spot for the rest of the year. In a landscape, Flowering Cherries are the queens of the spring. They are best used as focal points where people can walk under them or see them from a window. To create a classic spring look, underplant your cherry tree with blue Grape Hyacinths or white Snowdrops. The contrast between the pink petals falling on a carpet of blue flowers is one of the most iconic sights in temperate gardening.